Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Avoiding Potholes

Potholes destroy tires, and the price of tires is rising sharply due to a supply shortage of natural rubber (yes, it still comes from trees, mostly in southeast Asia) and increasing demand from China, where car ownership is undergoing double-digit growth. Petroleum is also used in tire manufacturing, adding further to cost volatility. Blow out just one tire on one pothole and expect to pay out more – one major tire manufacturer increased prices three times in 2011 alone.

 

Damage from potholes doesn’t stop at tires. In a blink of the eye, you can experience $1000 of damage, possibly more, when your car hits a pothole – it’s possible to impair your car’s shock absorbers, suspension system, struts, rims and alignment as well. According to the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials, the average additional vehicle operating costs due to rough roads in 2007 was $400, with higher costs experienced in places including Baltimore ($589), Concord, NH ($656), Dallas-Fort Worth ($512), Los Angeles ($746), New Orleans ($622), New York-Newark ($638), Oklahoma City ($631), San Francisco-Oakland ($705) and Tulsa ($703). Deteriorating roads and general inflation since 2007 likely pushed these costs higher.

But there are things you can do before, during and after hitting a pothole. A preventive strategy is more about preparation, driving skills and reacting appropriately when a pothole sneaks up to surprise you. We suggest you approach it on three fronts, as follows.

Adopt smarter driving practices

You can reduce damage with vehicle preparation and driving with good sense:

• Check your tire pressure to keep it at the tire manufacturer’s recommendation. If a tire is too soft, it handles poorly and in a sudden bump may rupture if the wheel rims pinch it against the jagged edge of a pothole. Over-inflated tires are more susceptible to damage as well.
• Have a clean windshield! Your field of vision is critical.
• Observe the traffic ahead of you – if other cars are swerving and stopping, it’s because of a problem in the road.
• Beware of puddles – what might look like a little surface water might have a nasty, deep and sharp-edged pothole lurking below.
• Reduce your speed on roads that are prone to potholes. Slower hits generally involve less damage, a simple matter of physics.
• Stay focused and pay attention to the amount of traffic in front, behind and alongside you. You might be able to avoid potholes but do not want to cause an accident while doing so.

React quickly, intelligently when a pothole is upon you

Assuming you drive defensively – and do not tailgate, which restricts your ability to anticipate potholes or sudden braking by the vehicle in front of you – here is what to do if you are just about to hit a pothole:

• Brake only lightly, if at all. And do something counterintuitive by letting off on the brakes entirely the moment before impact. Clamping down on your brakes at higher speeds not only tempts rear-end collisions but also compresses the front-end suspension system, increasing the damage.
• Hard braking can actually cause greater contact between the tire and the pothole where it might otherwise glide over it.
• Do not swerve in a last ditch attempt to avoid the pothole. Aside from creating a hazard for vehicles immediately behind and beside you, you risk hitting the pothole on an oblique angle, which can cause more damage to the tire, wheel rim and alignment than if you hit it perpendicularly.

Reduce the damage in the aftermath

Post-impact, the right moves can at least limit the extent of the damage:

• Immediately pay attention to whether or not you have a flat tire. If so, minimize how much you drive on it, pull off the road as soon as you can do so safely where you can change the tire to your spare. This will minimize the damage to your wheel rim.
• Even without a flat, there may be preliminary damage. At your next stop, check tire rims to see if they were bent, if there is visible cord material or bulging. This could fail later while driving.
• Note if your car pulls to one side without corrective steering. This suggests the wheels are out of alignment and need mechanical attention.

In most municipalities, you can and should report potholes to the streets department – use a smartphone app such as SeeClickFix or SaveMyTire.com, or the local 3-1-1 or other call-in line. You might also be compensated for your loses if that pothole was reported previously and left unfixed, however rules for this are determined on a city, township or county level.

 

Courtesy of Pothole.info

Google adds hybrid Lexus RX450h to autonomous fleet

The Google self-driving-vehicle fleet has grown by one. According to Wired, the tech giant has added a black Lexus RX450h to its autonomous stable. The hybrid SUV was spotted out on the road for testing wearing a new roof-mounted sensor array that's significantly more streamlined than the gear found on the company's autonomous Toyota Prius models. Google says it is constantly testing its driving algorithms on a wide range of vehicles in order to refine the technology, and that the RX450h is merely the latest step in that process.

Google first began unleashing its driverless cars onto public streets in 2010 using a fleet comprised of six Prius hybrids and one Audi TT. The company's work has spurred the California legislature to draft a bill requiring the California Highway Patrol to outline safety standards for autonomous vehicles. Wired reports the legislation passed the state's Senate Transportation Committee with an 8-0 vote and is now headed to the Senate Rules Committee. Nevada has already passed a similar law.

 

Courtesy of Wired via Autoblog

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Oil Changes

An oil and filter change involves draining out the old motor oil and replacing it with fresh, new motor oil. The oil filter also gets replaced at the same time.

Should I do this service when it's recommended?

In general, yes. Changing your vehicle's oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your mechanic later on.

However, there's a lot of controversy about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work -- how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving -- it's an inexact science. Owner's manual recommendations for oil and filter changes vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles.

We recommend that you change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles. That's our best estimate. It may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last to a ripe, old age.

You may want to consider changing your oil more frequently if:

• You drive like a knucklehead: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving
• You live where the climate is extremely hot or cold
• You often drive on dirt roads
• Your engine is old and burns oil
• You frequently carry heavy loads (several mothers-in-law or other cargo)

Why do I have to do this?

Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant (read: expensive), parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.

Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.

Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can't absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.

What happens if I don't do this?

Your engine won't last as long as it could. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil. Oil is relatively cheap, and changing your oil every 5,000 miles is a very cheap insurance policy against major repairs down the road.

Courtesy of CarTalk

Six-Cylinder Midsize Luxury Sedan Comparison

1ST PLACE: Lexus GS 350 F Sport
Maybe The Ultimate Driving Machine

Remember that E60 535i I mentioned, the one we adored and awarded first place in a February 2010 comparison test? Well, this new Lexus GS 350 F Sport reminds us of that car. A lot. Nimble, balanced, precise, and quick, the GS is a (retired) BMW cloaked in Lexus steel. At 3834 pounds, the GS is the lightest of the four and it feels it -- turn-in is sharp and accurate, and weight transfer, whether lateral or longitudinal, is neutral and composed. The Lexus proved the most entertaining, rewarding, and confidence-inspiring up, down, and along our demanding Malibu road loop. Ultimate driving machine? Oh, yeah.

 Click to view Gallery

Lieberman: "Great steering. Balanced, communicative, properly weighted. Just a joy to drive. Neutral without being leaden. Very Mazda-like, in fact. And I say all this having driven the car in Sport instead of Sport Plus." Evans: "This is a Lexus? Really impressed with the handling and confidence in the car. Holds the road much better than expected. Can really fling it at the corners." Martinez: "The Sport Plus algorithm allows for a proper testing of its grip thresholds, and on the loop's tight technical zigzags, it was just right. Only once did any traction control light flash, and, unlike the Infiniti, shifts were clean, fast, and when you wanted them. Also unlike the Infiniti: The Lexus felt way smaller than it was. Like, really smaller."

In driving feel, the Lexus does exactly what you want it to do -- it shrinks around you. Yet, when it comes to pampering, it opens up, inviting you into the richest, most aesthetically pleasing cabin in its class. Lieberman: "Gorgeous interior. Love the metalwork, especially the volume and tune knobs. Feels like they're off my old Marantz Quadradial. Extremely solid and finely made." Martinez: "From the classy analog clock to the soft leather lining the seats, center console, and doors to the near-perfect sport steering wheel and massive and clear multimedia display, this Lexus oozes modern sophistication." Evans: "This is my favorite Lexus interior ever. So refined and stylish. Not boring and not overdone."

 Click to view Gallery

Here are some numbers to consider: 0-60 in 5.4 seconds; the quarter mile in 14.0 at 101.0 mph; lateral acceleration of 0.94 g; figure eight of 25.4 seconds at 0.71 g; EPA fuel economy of 19/28; and observed mpg of 18.9. Not first, not last; just right in the sweet spot. Only 60-0 braking, at 110 feet, was behind the curve, but only by 4 feet versus the Audi and BMW. Then there's price. At $58,800 as tested, the GS F Sport, again, sits comfortably in the sweet spot.

OK, now for the whale in the room: the prehistoric fish face. "Predator," "Vader," and "abstract art piece" were some of the other terms thrown around. But as Lieberman summed up: "Please don't let the looks detract you from buying the Lexus GS, because it's without doubt the best car of these four."

So go ahead and trade in that old IS. This GS is a midlife crisis cure-all.

Courtesy of Motor Trend

Thank you for the kind words, Edie!

"They are great!  I would definitely shop there again if I wanted to purchase another Lexus." - Edie

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Keeping Your Car in Shape

Keep Your Engine Properly Tuned

Fixing a car that is noticeably out of tune or has failed an emissions test can improve its gas mileage by an average of 4 percent, though results vary based on the kind of repair and how well it is done.

Fixing a serious maintenance problem, such as a faulty oxygen sensor, can improve your mileage by as much as 40 percent.

Keep Tires Properly Inflated

You can improve your gas mileage by up to 3.3 percent by keeping your tires inflated to the proper pressure. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.3 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires. Properly inflated tires are safer and last longer.

The proper tire pressure for your vehicle is usually found on a sticker in the driver's side door jamb or the glove box and in your owner's manual. Do not use the maximum pressure printed on the tire's sidewall.

Use the Recommended Grade of Motor Oil

You can improve your gas mileage by 1–2 percent by using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil. For example, using 10W-30 motor oil in an engine designed to use 5W-30 can lower your gas mileage by 1–2 percent. Using 5W-30 in an engine designed for 5W-20 can lower your gas mileage by 1–1.5 percent. Also, look for motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.

 

Courtesy of FuelEconomy.gov

2013 Lexus GS earns IIHS Top Safety Pick

The 2013 GS is the new face of the Lexus brand, and as it turns out, that spindle-grilled mug can take a serious punch. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety has named the GS a Top Safety Pick after the reshaped Lexus sedan held strong in front, side and rollover crash testing.

To earn a Top Safety Pick designation, a car, truck or utility vehicle must achieve a top score of "Good" in front, side and rear impact crash tests. The IIHS test features taller cement crash barriers to simulate a collision with a larger vehicle and the front impact test is conducted at a speed of 40 miles per hour. The vehicle must also feature stability control and a roof that maintains integrity even at a weight equal to or greater than four times that of the vehicle. The IIHS reports that the GS could withstand 4.88 times its 3,715 pound weight.

The GS joins the RX and the CT 200h as the third Lexus model to net a Top Safety Pick.

Courtesy of IIHS via Autoblog

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Coolant Flush

Coolant Flush – How Often is Needed?

Real coolant flush entails removing all the fluid that is in the cooling system and replacing it with fresh one. The best method of removing all the fluid is hooking the car to the machine that will remove it while at the same time, it puts in fresh fluid. The coolant flush machine puts in the right amount of fluid.

 

The machines circulate the fluid in the vehicle cooling system for a number of times. This removes any kind of debris that could have accumulated for a long time. This is the only way that one can consider to have received the service that has been done in the right way.

 

Refills and Drainage

 

Coolant flush is usually confusing to many people as many think that it involves just draining and then refilling cooling system. There are others who assume that it is done by hooking it up to the flush machine and back flushing the system.

 

The difference between refill or drain and engine coolant flush is big. Draining and refilling is straight forward and has no difficulties while a flush needs one to have a coolant flush kit, draining and refilling just includes the drainage of a radiator and the reservoir.

 

It is then refilled with the some new fluid.  Before draining and refilling it is important to make arrangements on how the fluid should be drained as the old fluid cannot be poured down a drain or on the street.

 

Coolant Flushes and Solvents

 

Clearing contamination in the engine coolant system might be necessary  but  using a flush solvent  or any element  that  is used to clean  the cooling  system  will do more damage than  good. Getting the cooling system flushed using the flushing machine might be the right way but it is important to first ask is coolant flush necessary?

 

This depends on the reasons that have prompted the car owner to consider it but at times it might not be necessary and the cost can be saved. However there could be reasons why someone feels that it is necessary to have a it done and not just because there is coolant flush coupon that would cater for part of the cost.

 

If the PH of the cooling fluid is not the right one, there is a need to for flushing. It is also important to do a flush if it is noted that the coolant has been discolored. When carrying out such service the BMW and Toyota coolant flush cost might be different depending on where it is done but it is necessary to use a flush machine.

 

The advantage of using the flush machine is that there is an assurance that almost all the old coolant will be flushed out. Draining and refilling just removes only 50 to 60 percent of old fluid.

 

Frequency of Coolant Flushes

 

When it comes to maintenance of the cooling system that involves coolant flush how often should it be done? This is something that does not need to carry out frequently. There are mechanics who advise their clients to do it every year but it is not necessary and will only increase servicing cost for nothing.

 

Most of the cars that were built after the early year of 1990s have coolant that can last for at least five years or even longer. For all this period, no maintenance is required. Although this is a good service when there is a necessity to have it done, coolant flushing can be imposed on the customers who do not understand about the time when it should be done by mechanics who want to make extra cash.

 

The best thing to do after being informed by mechanic that there is a need for coolant flushing is to find out the exact reason why it should be done. Check your car manual; it is about 50,000 miles interval before it is needed for such thorough cleaning service.

 

Coolant Test Strips

 

It is possible to establish if there is a need for coolant flush even without the help of a mechanic. This is done by using by using testing strips that can be bought from most of the stores that sell auto spares. These strips make it possible to determine whether the coolant has the right PH.

 

By using the test strips one can establish the level of freeze protection and if there is a need for more additives. If it is necessary for such service the coolant flush kit instructions should be followed. Ensure that everything is needed and ready before starting the exercise.

 

Courtesy of CoolantFlush.net

Live Coverage from the New York Auto Show

For the next two days, the New York International Auto Show opens its doors to the media, and I’m here at the Javits Center to bring you live Lexus coverage from the show floor.

The big news from Lexus is the debut of the all-new, sixth generation ES, which will be revealed at 11:20 a.m. EDT. I’m also looking forward to seeing the 2013 RX for the first time, plus whatever else Lexus has planned.

12:09pm: Popping the hood on the new Lexus ES 300h hybrid:

12:07pm: Liking the rear design of the new ES:

12:05pm: The 2013 Lexus ES also gets a Drive Mode Select: Normal, Eco & Power:

11:58am: Here's a closer look at the 2013 ES dash:

11:45am: Who would have ever thought we'd see a LFA-inspired wheel design on an ES?:

11:43am: Detail shot of the Lexus ES hybrid taillight:

11:40am: The 2013 ES interior is a real stunner:

11:38am: A closer look at the front end of the 2013 ES:

 

Courtesy of Lexus Enthusiast

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Interior Cleaning Tips

#1: Refer to the owner's manual before attempting to clean the interior of your vehicle. I've found that many of today's auto components are very sensitive to cleaners. Before you start, test each of the interior materials in small, out-of-the-way locations, where consequences won't be too terrible if it doesn't work out. It's better to be safe than sorry. Do you want to look at the spray pattern from a can of Super Duper Quikkie-Kleen for the rest of the life of your car?

#2: Don't vacuum hard to reach places - instead, blow it out by connecting your vacuum hose to the vacuum outlet. It is most effective to rapidly toggle the power switch on your vacuum between "on" and "off." Here's why. If you blow the debris out at full speed, it's going to fly all over the vehicle. Doing it at a reduced power, however, will move the debris just far enough so you can access it, then easily vacuum it up.

#3: Get a paint brush and a toothbrush. These are the two best tools for accessing hard-to-reach cracks, crevices and corners. The paint brush is great for reaching into deep locations. Vacuum with one hand as you brush those hard-to-reach locations, and you'll quickly clean up tricky spots. Leave both brushes in your glove compartment, so you'll have them when you stop by your local car wash and vacuum emporium.

#4: To thoroughly remove debris from carpets and mats, use a sturdy brush and run a vacuum right behind it. Don't get too aggressive with the brush. Mats and carpets are (sadly) poorly made these days, even on high-end vehicles. You can easily cause fraying or other damage by using too much force.

#5: For gum, wax and other materials use chewing gum remover. It actually freezes the gum, so that it can easily be scraped off. Use a dull paint scraper to remove the gum once it's frozen. If you can't find chewing gum remover, you can also use dry ice. Get the gum cold enough so it will crack when you apply light pressure with the scraper.

Chewing gum remover may not be available at your local automotive parts and accessories store. You may have to purchase it through an auto-detailing company or a janitorial supply company.

#6: Skip the ArmorAll on the interior. I find it actually attracts dust. If you do use it, buff it in with a moist rag.

#7: Be very cautious cleaning the transparent plastic on your vehicle's instrument cluster. A lot of these plastics are extremely soft, and will scratch easily. I use Plexus plastic cleaner.

#8: The dirtiest spots in a car's interior are the locations you touch, meaning the steering wheel, seat belt, the shifting knob and the driver's side door panel. The "V" between your legs, where your Egg McMuffin and coffee winds up, can also be very dirty. Locate these components and plan to spend a few extra minutes cleaning them.

#9: When you're cleaning seat belts, only use a diluted, mild laundry soap. This will protect the integrity of the belt fabric.

#10: Windows should be cleaned inside and out with glass cleaner and paper towels. Then, lightly buff the windows with a 100% cotton towel.

#11: The dashboard and vehicle panels should be wiped with a dampened cloth with water. To remove grime, use an all-purpose cleaner, diluted with water. As always, use the mildest soap possible.

#12: Need to get rid of smells? Vinegar works very well, and it's a whole lot cheaper than commercial products. Start with a 20:1 water-to-vinegar concentration, and scrub thoroughly. If that doesn't work, slowly increase the ratio until you have success.

#13: No matter what you're doing to your car, be gentle. Because of manufacturers' interest in saving a buck, and the desire to increase the EPA fuel economy, a lot of manufacturers are using less durable materials. So, whether you're working on the inside or the outside, be gentle, or you may permanently mar or damage your vehicle.

 

Courtesy of Car Talk